We arrived in Miri after a 2 ½ hr flight from Kuala Lumpur. Taking the first flight out at 7-ish a.m. is the best. Early enough to catch the 11.00am express boat to Marudi but unfortunately not early enough to travel all the way into Mulu National Park.
Our trip this time was going to encompass several more places before arriving at Mulu National Park. Granted that this would definitely be more expensive than flying direct from Miri to Mulu but we didn’t really want to miss out on the opportunity to see some of Borneo’s interior.
Not to scare anyone else off, there is an easier way to get to Mulu of course. You can book a seat on Maswing flights which take a mere 28min from Miri airport to Mulu airport; granted that it’s not a foggy day in which case it would take a little longer to get there.
But for the intrepid traveller, the planned route was like this: Miri by speedboat to Marudi ; stayover at Marudi ; Marudi by speedboat to Long Lama ; Long Lama by 4WD to Long Bedian ; Long Bedian by 4WD to Tenyok Rimba Resort : Tenyok Rimba Resort by 4WD to Long Terawan : Long Terawan by longboat to Mulu National Park
Our guide, Willie had made arrangements for us to overnight at a small motel in Marudi. The express boat from Kuala Baram jetty (some 45min drive from Miri airport) to Marudi was to be 2 ½ hrs. It turned out to be about 3 ½ hrs as the driver of the boat had slowed down the speed due to rising fuel cost, since not having raised the ticket price of a mere RM20 per person. We chugged upriver in an .. thankfully.. airconditioned boat. The Baram river is wide and steady.. If you’re brave enough, you can stand on the ledge of the boat for a better view. Once in a while, on the muddy banks, a crocodile was seen sunning itself.
The park itself spans an area of 217sq miles or 52,000 hectares harbouring at least 15 types of Borneon virgin forests from lowland dipterocarp areas, swampy jungles to montane forests. The National Park was established in 1975 for the purpose of research study and conservation. The Park’s original people are the nomadic Penans who are now settled in a village just outside the park headquarters. The other group whose ancestors have lived in the area for hundreds of years are the Berawan people. These people live in the upper reaches of Tutoh area and their vast hunting ground also included the Mulu area which also provides them with Native Land Rights to the area.
United Nations Educational, Scientific & Cultural Organization or UNESCO accorded MuluNational Park with the World Heritage Site in November 2000 in the hope that the area will be conserved and preserved for the future.
Mulu was unknown to the outside world until a 15th month long expedition organised by the Royal Geographic Society explored the area in 1977/1978 and presented their finds to the world. Although they had only 6 cavers present in the group of researchers and scientists, in the 3months there, they managed to chart 42km of the cave system. Then National Geographic Magazine then featured amazing photos captured of the caves and its inhabitants . Mulu was soon thrust into the limelight.
In the early years of exploration, it took 3 days to travel to the HQ at Long Pala. There were neither flights nor logging roads and getting there was simply the old fashioned way – by long boat. Today, it’s a plane hop away…for the hurried, that is.
Around the Mulu Park Headquarters
Where to Stay
The Park HQ is assessable by road from the airport. If you were to take a taxi from the airport to the park, it’ll cost RM5 per person per way and take approximately 10minutes to get there. Most of the accommodations are located around the Park HQ. There are several local homestays ; the upmarket Royal Mulu Resort and also Park lodgings. But because the local homestays are normally run by the Berawan people and they have little or no experience in marketing their accommodation, many visitors opt for either the Park lodgings or the Royal Mulu Resort located across the river from the park HQ.
Where to Eat
Most who stay at the Royal Mulu Resort would opt for the package deal which also includes meals at the resort itself. For those staying at the Park HQ, there’s The Mulu Café serves local and western fare and is open from 7.30am till 9.30pm, last orders at 8.30pm. The restaurant here doesn’t serve alcohol so you will have to BYOB. Alternatively, you can also have your meals at the local restaurants. The one closest to the Park HQ is the Jewel. If you want a cold beer and reasonably priced meals, this is the place to get it. Moreover, it’s a good place to sit and mingle with the locals. If you take the packages that are provided, you will hardly get much opportunity to connect with the local people.
The accommodation within the Mulu World Heritage Area is located at Park Headquarters. Buildings are nestled along the edge of the rainforest near the Melinau River. Relax on the verandahs or in the reading lounge, swim in the river, have a game of volleyball or laze in the gardens and enjoy the sun. Boardwalks connect all the buildings with soft lighting to show you the way home at night. Housekeeping and Café staff are on duty from 7.00 am to 9.00 pm but Security staff are on duty 24 hours a day.
The park is capable of sleeping up to 80 people per night in a range of accommodation. Rooms have coffee and tea making facilities and the Hostel has individual lockers that may be rented at RM5 per day.
The park is capable of sleeping up to 80 people per night in a range of accommodation. Rooms have coffee and tea making facilities and the Hostel has individual lockers that may be rented at RM5 per day.
- Cooking is not permitted in the rooms.
- Laundry facilities are not available, though private arrangements can be made with the housekeeping staff.
- Check in is at 2.00 pm and check out at 10.00 am
- Camping not permitted anywhere in the Park
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Longhouse rooms are air conditioned with ceiling fans and en suite bathrooms and offer a combination of double and single beds sleeping 2 - 4 persons. Rooms are serviced daily and have tea and coffee making facilities. The twin-share room and breakfast price begins at RM220 twin share and includes breakfast.
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Café Mulu is open daily from 7.30am to 9.00pm and is located at Park Head quarters. This open air restaurant serves a range of local foods including forest vegetables such as ‘Paku fern' and western dishes. The patio is a great place to relax and read, meet other travelers, play some of the games provided or just relax with a cold beer or a fine wine.
After your meal you can visit the Mulu Discovery Centre which is adjacent to the dining area, it features the biological and geological story of the park via information boards, video presentations and a library of resources books for you to read.
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For those who are planning overnight treks to the Summit or the Pinnacles, groceries suitable for camp cooking are on sale. The Café staff can also help you with some fresh items such as eggs, bread, fruits and vegetables – just ask for their advice.
More Info:
- www.travel2malaysia.com.my
- www.tourism.gov.my
- http://www.mulupark.com
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